08.30.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00am, solo, Chris M arrived around 6:30. Tide was pushing to a 4.99' high at 9:14am. Conditions were very glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.8' at 6s from 278°. Most of the waves were coming from the west wind swell, and were mostly walled, with some fun corners to be had. Waves were waist high. Water was really warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.