09.27.14 - DMJ (Camp Pendleton) #2

Similar size to this morning, but a lot more texture due to the winds. Did catch a few fun ones on my 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2. 

09.27.14 - DMJ (Camp Pendleton)

Paddled out at 8:00 am solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.2' high around 9:40 am. Conditions were a little bouncy due to the wind swell. Wind was offshore. A caught a few fun corners today. Board ridden: 5'10" Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish. 

09.25.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:10 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a 0.9’ low at 4:01 am. Conditions were a little bumpy due to evening wind, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.8' from 268° at 14.6s. Today was my first session on my new Larry Mabile shaped Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish. I caught a few okay waves, but nothing to write home about. Waves were waist to chest hig. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5’10” Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish.

09.21.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.2’ high at 8:38. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 207° at 14.7s. It was a relatively small, and inconsistent day, but I did catch a few fun waves. Waves were waist high. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin.

09.18.14 Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:15 am, Joel S. and Chris M.. Tide was pushing to a 4.4’ high at 7:29 am. Conditions were a little bouncy, with light winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 5.3' from 208° at 17.4s. Today was bigger than Tuesday’s session, with some sneaker sets rolling through. Caught a few funs ones, but my timing was still feeling a little off. Waves were Head high with plus sets. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

09.16.14 - Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:20 am, Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was just coming off of a 3.55’ high at 5:47 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 203° at 22.4s. It was a pretty fun session on the south side of the river mouth. Waves had that peaky wind swell feel to them. I was noticing a slight lack of wave judgement due to my hiatus.. Waves were chest high. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

09.07.14 - Table Tops

Paddled out at 9:00 am, solo. Tide was was coming off of a 5.6’ high at 8:45 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.9' from 198° at 16.6s. I randomly chose to surf Table Tops today, as it has been a while since I have surfed there. It was a little funky with the high tide, but I did catch a couple of decent ones. Waves were chest high +. Water was comfortable in my trunks and l/s surf jacket. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.

09.05.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 3:45 PM, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.4' high at 7:01 PM. Conditions were bumpy, with west winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.5' from 188° at 18.6s. The new swell was filling in. Most of the sets were pretty walled, but I was able to get a few decent corners. Waves were chest to head high. Water was warm in my long sleeve surf shirt. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin.

09.02.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 2.8’ low at 8:26 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.0' from 204° at 14.9s. Today was a surprisingly fun session. Crowds were low, waves were a little inconsistent, but deceptively fun. Some waves were closing out, but if you got the right one, you could cover some serious ground. Waves were chest high plus. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.