09.05.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 3:45 PM, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.4' high at 7:01 PM. Conditions were bumpy, with west winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.5' from 188° at 18.6s. The new swell was filling in. Most of the sets were pretty walled, but I was able to get a few decent corners. Waves were chest to head high. Water was warm in my long sleeve surf shirt. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin.