09.02.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 2.8’ low at 8:26 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.0' from 204° at 14.9s. Today was a surprisingly fun session. Crowds were low, waves were a little inconsistent, but deceptively fun. Some waves were closing out, but if you got the right one, you could cover some serious ground. Waves were chest high plus. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.