Sunday, December 23, 2012

12.23.12 - Swami's-Boneyards

Paddled out at 6:15am, solo. Tide was dropping off of a 5.7' high at 5:38am. Conditions were glassy, with sligh offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.7' from 284° at 14s. Conditions were similar to yesterday, but the tide was affecting it some, and the crowd at swami's was more as well. I caught about 3 waves before paddling up to Boneyards. I caught several waves there, but it could have used less tide. I caught one really long right, so I decided to head back over to swami's to catch one in. Waves were 5-7'. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 fullsuit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





12.22.12 - Swami's

Paddled out at 6:10am, solo. Tide was dropping off of a 5.5' High at 4:57am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 281° at 15.1s. This was a really fun day at Swami's. It was still pretty dark when I first paddled out. I surfed the north part of the main peak and caught some fun lefts, I also caught about 5-6 really long rights (almost all the way to the beach). My arms were seriously tired after each of the long rights. I kept thinking that I would paddle up to Boneyards if the crowd got to big, but it remained managable, so I stayed there the entire session. The KG was working really well for the conditions - nice drawn out turns, as well as fast through the speed sections. Waves were 5-7'. Water was comforatable in my 3/2 fullsuit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Thursday, December 20, 2012

12.20.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:25am, solo, but Chris M. joined me around 15 minutes later. Paddled out at north peak. Tide was dropping from a 4.59' high at 3:07am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore  winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.2' from 282° at 13s. I would call today my first "winter" session at blacks this season. Just paddling out, you could feel the "energy" in the water. At south peak the waves looked good, however a lot of the sets looked closed out. I chose north peak because it looked like there might me more corners available. In the 45 minutes I was out, I only caught 5 waves. Most were just a drop, and the shoulder would flatten out... But what a drop they were! So in general I was happy with my session. Waves were solid head high with bigger sets. Chris and I were calling it 6-8' on the face. Water was around 60°, but the air was really cold. Today was my first session of the season with booties... they didn't suck, and were nice to have for the walk up the road. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Saturday, December 8, 2012

12.08.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 11:00am, with Chris M. Tide was dropping to a 1.0' low at 11:28am. Conditions were clean, with slight side/offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 278° at 10.3s. When Chris and I walked down the road middles and north peak looked pretty packed, and there were some decent waves rolling in at south peak, so we chose the less crowded option. Some of the waves were a little "slow" but there were some fun lined up ones as well. My knee was extremely tender walking down, and back up the road, from running a 5k as well as a 1 mile fun run, it held up okay whilst surfing. Waves were chest high with occassional pluses. Water was toasty in my 3/2 full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Friday, November 23, 2012

11.23.12 - Boneyards

Paddled out at around 2:00pm, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.1' high at 6:22pm. Conditions were somewhat choppy, with slight onshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.9' from 274° at 12-14s. Surf was pretty mediocre. It was much mushier that it looked from the parking lot. I caught a couple of decent rights, and one pretty good left. Other than that not much to speak of. Waves were chest high. Water was warm in my 3/2 full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.




Thursday, November 22, 2012

11.22.12 - Boneyards (Thanksgiving)

Paddled out at 5:45, solo. Tide was a 5.05' high at 5:01am. Conditions were glassy, with off-shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 6.1' from 279° at 12-14s. Paddled out at Swami's but I knew it was going to get crowded fast, so I paddled over to the Boneyard. Waves were solid head high with occassional overhead sets rolling through. It was a little mushy due to the high tide, but fun nonetheless. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 full. Board ridden: 5'10 KG Twinzer.




Tuesday, November 20, 2012

11.20.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:50 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 2.33' low at 8:58 am. Conditions were somewhat crossed up, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.3' from 253° at 12-14s. There were still some waves today. However it was a little funky. There were some corners, but a lot of the waves were either closed out or backing off. Waves were chest high. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 full suit. Board ridden: 5'8" Xanadu Pig 2.




Monday, November 19, 2012

11.18.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45am, solo. Tide was a 2.5' low at 5:44am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.3' from 206-278°. Surf was pretty clean today. Relatively crowded and somewhat inconsistent. There were some fun corners coming through, but there were a lot of close outs as well. Waves were chest high with occassional plusses. Water was I was a little chilly today in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'8" Xanadu Pig 2.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

11.15.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:55am, solo. Ended up having it to myself until 6:45 when a couple other guys paddled out. Tide was pushing from a 1.57' low at 2:52am to a 6.86' high at 9:03am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.1' from 278° at 10s. Surf was surprsingly fun today. Perhaps because my expectations were set so low. I mostly surfed towards north peak. There were two seals hanging out on the inside, and they would periodically come closer to me when I was paddling back out... a little creepy. Waves were mostly waist high, with an occassional chest high one rolling through. Water was a little cooler, but still comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer fish.




Tuesday, November 6, 2012

11.6.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45am, solo. Chris M. paddled out closer to 6:45.. Tide was barely moving from a 3.61 high at 3:33am to a 3.05 low at 8:22am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.7' from 284° at ~16s. There were some clean, fun, waves to be had. Most of the bigger sets were closed out, but there were some good corners to catch. Waves were waist to head high, with occassional pluses. Water was still hanging around 65°. Was confortable in my short sleave full. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer fish.




Thursday, November 1, 2012

11.02.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:35am, solo, but Chris M joined me close to 7am. Tide was pushing from a 2.17' low at 4:11am. Conditions were clean, with slight NE winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.0' from 275° at 14s. Waves were pretty walled out, due to the predominant west swell, but there were some fun corners to catch, and there were some guys getting some nice barrels. Waves were 3-5 with an occasional +. Water was still in the mid 60's, so I was comfy in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.




Sunday, October 28, 2012

10.28.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 1:30pm, with Bryan Coon. Tide was dropping to a 0.0'low at 3:21pm. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 282° at 7.5s. Surf was smaller than yesterday, and mostly closed out. There were some occassional corners to pick off. Waves were 2-3+. Water was really nice in my spring suit due to the santa ana conditions. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.



Saturday, October 27, 2012

10.27.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30am, solo. Tide was Pushing fast to a 6.2' high at 8:14am. Conditions were glassy, with off shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' at 9s combo NNW and SSW. Surf was pretty clean. The winds were strong offshore at first so it was hard to paddle into the rights. There was a NSSA contest starting at 7:00 at middles, so I drifted down a little south to be out of the contest area. In general the waves were fun, but soft due to the high tide. Waves were chest high with occassional plus. Water was really nice in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer fish.



Saturday, October 20, 2012

10.18.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:45am, solo. Tide was pushing from a 1.8' low at 4:09am. Conditions were bug and junky, with south winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.2' at 5s from 220°. The south winds were noticable when I was changing into my suit, I was hoping that there was enough east wind to keep it clean, but alas... This was my first session back since injuring my elbow, so I am still glad I paddled out. I surfed for about 45 minutes, and only caught two waves due to the curent and chop it was hard to be in the "right" spot. Waves were 4-6'+. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer fish.




Monday, October 1, 2012

9.16.12 - Blacks

Sorry for the super late posting of this session (and lack of new reports as well - but I am out of the water right now with an elbow injury).

Paddled out at 6:30 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.7' high at 9:50am. Conditions were crossed up, with slight onshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.2' from 220° at 6s. Conditions looked pretty junky, but since I was going to be out of town for a week I decied to paddle out nonetheless. I went out close to the ho chi min trail, and there were some okay corners to pick off. I had the peak to my self so that helped as well. there was a strong northbound current. Waves were waist high. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.





Monday, September 10, 2012

9.9.12 - Barney's (Cardiff Campgrounds)

Paddled out at 7:00am, Joel S. and his son Henry. Tide was barely moving this morning. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 288° at 7s. Today was my first "real" session on Beth's long board. Waves were relatvely slow, but there were a few long rides.. Waves were waist high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 9'0" Bruce Jones.






Thursday, September 6, 2012

9.6.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00am, solo, saw Derrik out a little later. Tide was a 2.26' low at 6:18am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 184° at 7s. A generally small surf day, with occassional decent left hand sets coming through. A lot of water activitiy with seals, dolphins, fish, pelicans, and other birds. Waves were waist high. Water was comfortable in my ss full suit (water tem had dropped a bit since Sunday). Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.