Sunday, February 24, 2013

2.24.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:45 am, with Chris M. Tide was pushing to a 6.0' high at 7:57am. Conditions were glassy, with a little bump, with light offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.7' from 280° at 12s. It was much bigger today, and I think blacks was picking up the steep NW swell pretty well. Even though the tide was high, blacks was handling the tide pretty well. We only had about an hour to surf, and the sets were pretty inconsistent (but big enough that I didn't want to get caught inside, because they were nearing my comfort limits). Waves were 5-7'+. Water was cold. Wore my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.






2.23.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:45 am, with Chris M. Tide was pushing to a 5.8' high at 7:23 am. Conditions were clean, with light offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 274° at 14s. Surf was small, and a little mushy due to the tide, but it was better than we expected. Waves were waist high with occasional pluses. Water was cold. Wore my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.






Friday, February 15, 2013

2.15.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a 1.15' low at 6:51am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.4' 276° at 6s. Surf was small but clean today. Waves were waist high with occasional chest high ones rolling through. Water was chilly. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.






Tuesday, February 12, 2013

2.12.13 - 11th St. Del Mar

Paddled out at 6:10 am, with Chris M. and Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 5.19' high at 10:04 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.3' from 277° at 17s. Today was a really fun session! I would say this was the best session that I have had at 11th St. in the past couple of years. Chris, Joel, and I had the peak we were on pretty much to ourselves. We were all able to score a few really long rides. Some of the more inconsistent sets were closing out some, but the in-between waves would hold up really well. Waves were head high with occasional pluses. Water was cold, but felt okay in my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.




Sunday, February 10, 2013

2.9.13 - Boneyards

Paddled out at around 3:00, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was just coming off of a -1.6 low at 2:50. Conditions were pretty clean, with little to no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 6.4' from 247° at 11.5s. Conditions were surprisingly clean based upon the storm that had rolled through the night before. The peaks were shifting all around, and you basically had to wait until they were about to break right on you in order to be able to catch them. In general we had a decent session, minus the brief run in we had with these two guys who thought they owned the place. I think Chris had fun riding my 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish. Waves were head high with occasional pluses. Water was still chilly. I wore my 4/3 and booties. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Friday, February 8, 2013

2.7.13 - Blacks (All Time Dolphin Show)

Paddled out at 6:10 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.1' high at 6:33 am. Conditions were clean, with light offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.3' from 278° at 13.9s. The surf was bigger, and better than I had expected, based upon a few of the near shore models I had looked at Monday night, and with the high tide as well. The inside waves were around chest high, and the sets, albeit somewhat inconsistent were head high plus. Many of the waves I caught ended up tossing me around, because the bottoms were dropping out pretty fast. I did catch one really good left, somewhat long and fast, with a backside head dip on it (not fully barrelled, but probably one of my closest backside tube rides in a while). That wave was fun, but the highlight of the session was the full on dolphin show that happened early in the session. At one point there were close to 15 dolphin swimming around, catching air, and just playing! When I was paddling over the shoulder of a wave, a full sized dolphin dove out of the back and was flying through the air, about five feet away from me!! WOO HOO!!!. Waves were chest to head high plus. Water was starting to warm up a bit, but still wore my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.






Wednesday, February 6, 2013

2.5.13 - Suck Outs (Cardiff Reef)

Paddled out at 6:15, with Chris M. Tide was dropping from a 5.7' high tide at 4:31am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.6' from 274° at 14s. In general it was a pretty fun session, the crowd was pretty small, and chill for the most part, except one guy who wanted to "paddle battle" me on several waves and blatantly snaked Chris on another wave. Waves were head high. Water was cold, I wore my 4/3 and booties. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.






2.3.12 - 11th St. Del Mar (Superbowl Sunday)

Paddled out at around 2:30 pm, with Chris M.. Tide was pushing to a 2.8' high at 3:29 pm. Conditions were relatively smooth, with slight onshore winds. This was a pretty crazy session. All conditions were lining up for this to be a pretty decent Superbowl session. A new swell was peaking, the winds and tide  was cooperating for the kick off of the big game, and the crowds were pretty small... The waves weren't really that big, but due to the direction, and long period swells, you would be sitting around for a little while then consistent sets would role through. Almost all of the sets were completely closed out. If you decided to sit on the inside, then you would get pretty cleaned up by the sets. After about an hour or so, we decided to call i a session and headed in, so much for the epic Superbowl session. Waves were head high, and overhead on the sets. Water was cold, but comfortable in my 4/3 and booties. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

2.2.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30, solo. Tide was dropping to a 1.3' low at 7:51am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 1.7' from 239° at 13s. Surf was still pretty small, but there were some occassional "decent" ones rolling through. Waves were 2-3'. Water was chilly, but okay in my 4/3 and booties. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





1.31.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:20 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a 1.4' low at 5:25 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 1.9' from 267° at 9s. Surf was really small today, so not much to report. Waves were 1-2'. Water was still cold, but felt good in my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.