Sunday, May 26, 2013

5.26.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:30 am, solo. Tide was a -1.7' low at 5:01 am. Conditions were initially bumpy, with onshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.4' from 202° at 16 s. When I first got down to the beach the ocean had a serious case of morning sickness. With the tide drained out, and the ocean was pretty choppy. As the session progressed it actually cleaned up quite a bit. There were some fun ones, but nothing like yesterday. A little more inconsistent, and crossed up with some of the WNW swell. Waves were chest to head high, with pluses. Water was a tad cooler today, but still nice in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Saturday, May 25, 2013

5.25.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:40 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a -1.7' low at 4:14 am. Conditions were glassy, with slight SSE winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.6' from 216° at 15s. Waves were quite nice today, with some really nice lefts rolling off of south peak. Although it wasn't quite as good, I chose to surf north peak, as I had it to myself for almost 1.25 hours. Towards the end of the session it got more crowded, and a little less consistent. Waves were 5-6' with occassional pluses. Water was nice. I was toasty in my SS Full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Monday, May 20, 2013

5.20.13 - 18th St. Del Mar

Paddled out at 8:25 am, solo. Tide was dropping from a 4.1' high at 7:11 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 5.0' from 201° at 17s. Surf was pretty clean in Del Mar today. It was a little soft due to the tide. I did catch a lot of wave for the hour window I had. I broke my leash on a bigger left (older leash with some fin nicks on it) so I had to swim all the way to the beach a couple of times. Waves were 4-5' with occasional pluses. Water was really comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





5.19.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:40 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a 3.8' high at 5:00 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 216° at 16s. The new swell had filled in. There was a pretty strong south current. With the tide, the waves were a little soft on the take off, but that improved as the tide dropped. I surfed south peak, and caught several fun lefts and rights. Waves were 4-6'. Water was around 65° and I was comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Sunday, May 19, 2013

5.18.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:48 am, solo. Tide was just coming off of a 3.8' high at 3:36 am. Conditions were slightly textured, with SSE winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 282° at 7s. Surf was better than it looked from the beach, but still just okay today. Waves were 3-4'. Water was around 65° and was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Thursday, May 16, 2013

5.16.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:38 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 0.8' low at 8:35 am. Conditions were mostly clean, with slight ESE winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 5.2' from 286° at 8s. I was pleasantly surprised by the conditions today. When walking down the road, I thought it would be pretty junky due to the south winds. When I got down to the beach it was totally glassy, and there were some good sized waves rolling through. I mostly surfed the south end of North Peak. It took me a while to get my first couple of waves, but after that, I caught a decent amount. The swell was favoring the rights today. Waves were 4-6' faces. Water was in the mid 60s range. I was totally comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Thursday, May 2, 2013

5.2.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45, Joel S. and Chris M. Tide was dropping to a 0.0' low at 10:22 am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 203° at 16s. Surf was really fun today. There were quite a few long lefts, and occasional rights rolling through. Most waves were head high, or slightly overhead. There were the occasional set rolling through that was at least a couple of feet overhead. Waves were head high - overhead. Water was a little warmer today, but still some cold spots. Board ridden: 6'3" Wayne Lynch - 3rd session on this board. I think it will definitely be a good board for blacks.





4.30.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45, with Chris M, and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a -0.5' low at 8:02 am. Conditions were relatively clean, with slight side/offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.2' from 202° at 20s. Waves looked pretty junky walking up the beach, but were much better once I got in the water. The new south swell was starting to show, but still pretty inconsistent. Waves were chest high, with occasional head high ones rolling through. Water was ok in my 3/2, but there were some cold spots. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





4.25.13 - Cardiff Reef

Paddled out at 5:35 am, Chris M., Joel S. Chris P. and Liz. Tide was coming off of a -1.0 low at 3:39am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 193° at 13s. Surf was pretty inconsistent, but there were some occassional bigger sets rolling through. Pulled up to a really cool moonset. Was fun surfing with Joel, both Chris' and Liz. Waves were waist high +. Water was really nice in my 3/2. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig2.






4.23.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.8' high at 8:19 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 193° at 13s. Surf was pretty fun today. Waves were waist high+. Water was comfortable in my 3/2. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.