Monday, May 20, 2013

5.19.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:40 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a 3.8' high at 5:00 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 216° at 16s. The new swell had filled in. There was a pretty strong south current. With the tide, the waves were a little soft on the take off, but that improved as the tide dropped. I surfed south peak, and caught several fun lefts and rights. Waves were 4-6'. Water was around 65° and I was comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





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