Thursday, July 25, 2013

7.25.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was a -0.7 low at 5:49 am. Conditions were glassy, with slight side shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.2' from 202° at 15s. Today was so much better than I had expected. There were some really nice lefts rolling through. It was somewhat inconsistent, but well worth the wait. Waves were chest high with pluses. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Tuesday, July 23, 2013

7.23.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, Chris M. Tide was . Conditions were coming off of a -1.5' low at 4:29 am, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.2' from 202° at 13s. Swell has definitely dropped. There were a few, inconsistent, nuggets coming through.. Waves were waist high +. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Sunday, July 21, 2013

7.21.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Chris M. Tide was . Conditions were pushing to a 4.6' high at 9:25 am, with side shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.2' from 196° at 15s. There were some bigger sets today, but only caught a couple of decent ones. I think it was due to not being comfortable on the fish since it has been a while since I have ridden it consistently. Waves were head high with pluses. Water was a bit cold in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Saturday, July 20, 2013

7.20.13 - Blacks (broken board)

Paddled out at 5:20 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.3' high at 8:41 am. Conditions were slightly choppy, with side shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 197° at 14s. Pretty fun session today. The new south swell was showing up, along with the current WNW wind swell. I surfed for about an hour, catching a few fun ones. On one of my last waves I somehow buckled by board. I am still trying to figure out what happened. See pics.... Waves were 4-5'+. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as twin) prolly last time.










Friday, July 19, 2013

7.18.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:30 am, Chris M. and Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 3.5' high at 6:52 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.5' from 287° at 7s. Today was mostly left over wind swell. The rights were better than the lefts. Wind was changing around during the session, it would go from glassy to onshore to glassy, etc… very strong south current!! I had to paddle north for the entire session.. Waves were waist high +. Water was comfortable in trunks and ls surf jacket. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).





Tuesday, July 16, 2013

7.16.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 1.8' low at 9:07 am. Conditions were stormy, with side-shore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 291° at 6s. It was a funky day at blacks today. I almost didn't paddle out since it looked so crossed up, but glad I did. There were some fun corners to be had, albeit hard to pick which waves would actually break. There was a really strong south current today. Nice dolphin show though. Waves were 3-5'. Water was warm in my trunks and LS surf shirt. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).





Sunday, July 14, 2013

7.14.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 1.0' low at 7:29 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.6' from 200° at 15s. Pretty fun session today. A little inconsistent and walled off, but when you got the right wave it was fun. Waves were 4-5'. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).





7.13.13 - Del Mar Jetties (Camp Pendleton)

Paddled out at 6:30 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was . Conditions were dropping to a 0.6' low at 6:54 am, with little to no winds. Oceanside Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.4' from 193° at 15s. It was just an okay session at DMJs. There was quite a bit of backwash. Occasional long left to be had. Waves were chest high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).




Thursday, July 11, 2013

7.11.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:50 am, with Joel S. and Chris M. Tide was a -0.1' low at 5:51 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.1' from 198° at 16s. There were some occasional fun ones, but smaller than I had expected.. Waves were waist high, with occasional pluses. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (twin set up).





Monday, July 8, 2013

7.7.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, Chris M. Tide was . Conditions were pushing from a -0.5' low at 3:53am, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.8' from 203° at 14s. Waves were still pretty fun today, but a little smaller and more inconsistent. Waves were chest high. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).





7.6.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:50 am, Joel S. and Chris M.. Tide was pushing from a -0.5 at 3:53 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.5' from 223° at 13s. Nice clean session with all peaks breaking. You had to be patient for the better sets, but still fun.. Waves were chest high with occasional pluses. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





Tuesday, July 2, 2013

6.29.13 - Del Mar Jetties

Paddled out at 6:30 am, with Chris M and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a 0.7' low at 8:47 am. Conditions were glassy initially, with no winds. Oceanside Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.6' from 196° at 13s. Of my three sessions I have had at DMJs, this was the best one, but still a little funky. There were some fun ones, however quite a few were pretty "fat" on the take off.. Waves were chest high. Water was a mix of warm and cold spots. I wore my spring suit today. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).