1.29.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.2' high at 9:53am. Conditions were somewhat choppy, with 10-14 mph S-SE gusting winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 275° at 9s. There were some chest to head high + waves. The S-SE offshore winds were really strong, making it hard to paddle into the rights, and I was getting blinded by the blowing water when paddling for lefts. The winds were also blowing us out to sea... There was a pretty stong south bound current as well. I surfed mostly towards middles, and only caught two waves in 45 minutes. I decided to call it a day. Waves were 3-5+. Water was cold, but felt comfortable in my 4/3 booties and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.27.13 - Dolphin Tanks (Pt. Loma)

Paddled out at 8:00, rode out to Pt. Loma with Larry on his Wave Runner. I paddled in and rode 4-5 while he drove the ski around. Tide was pushing to a 5.7' high at 8:57am. Conditions were bumpy, with onshore winds. Point Loma South Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 6.3' from 282° at 8s. Waves were only okay, due to the wind and high tide. Since we drove the ski all the way out there, we decided I should go catch a few waves, before we headed back in to the harbor. Waves were head high plus. Water was cold, but felt okay in my 4/3 booties and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

01.26.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:45 am, with Chris M. Tide was pushing to a 5.8' high at 8:25am. Conditions were drizzling with fog, with slight winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3' from 260° at 12s. When Chris and I got down to the bottom of the road the wind was slightly onshore, so there was a little texture to the surface. The surf looked pretty soft due to the high tide as well. We paddled out near south peak, and it took me a while to catch my first wave. While waiting the low clouds turned into pretty thick fog, so thick you could no longer line up with the beach. Based on what the conditions looked like, I ended up catching about 5-6 really fun waves, which was a pleasant surprise. Waves were chest high with an ocasional plus. Water was cold, but the air was warmer, so that helped. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.22.13 - Suck Outs (Cardiff Reef)

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Joel S. Tide was coming of off a 5.2' high at 5:51am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.1' from 275° at 18s. Conditions were really clean, but somewhat inconsistant though. Joel and I were the first two guys out, and there were about 10 guys out when we came in about an hour later. Today was the day that I really "christened" my new board. My first and last wave were really long right hand walls where I took off at suck outs, and made my way well past south peak, with some really fun turns. Waves were 3-5'. Water was around 56°, felt okay in my 4/3 with booties and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.20.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 9:00, with Joel S. and Chris M. joined us a little later. Tide was dropping to a 0.7' low at 11:55 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.7' from 268° at 20s. Today was my first session on my new 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2. Conditions looked pretty clean while we were walking up the beach. This swell was pretty hyped up, therefore it was pretty crowded, so we opted to paddle out close to the Ho Chi Min trail head. The waves were really backed off outside, and would then close out on the inside. I only caught a couple of waves, and in general it was a pretty crappy session. Not ideal for my first session on a new board. Waves were chest high +. Water was 56°. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.6.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 7:00 am, with Chris M. Tide was dropping to a 0.7' low at 11:13 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.1' from 268° at 13s. Conditions were similar to yesterday, just a tiny bit smaller. Chris and I surfed north peak, and we caught some decent corners. Waves were head high with occassional pluses. Water was around 56°. Board ridden: 5'8" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.5.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 1.45' low at 10:07 am. Conditions were glassy, with offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.9' from 271° at 13s. Another nice day at blacks with consistent head high waves and occassional "canyon bombs" rolling though. It was somewhat crowded, so I didn't get many wave, but it was still really nice conditions. After two hours my hands were so numb, I had a hard time catching a decent one in. Waves were headhigh plus. Water was around 57. Was pretty cold in my 3/2 full, time to bust out the 4/3 for dawn patrols. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.

1.3.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 3.94' high at 12:23pm. Conditions were really clean, with offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.8' from 270° at 14.8s. This morning was a really fun session, albiet short due to work commitments. I was walking down the path with Cody, and just when Joel caught up to us near the bottom of the road, we all saw a shooting star! Then shortly after paddling out, a school of 15-20 dophins cruized through. Two or three of them came within a couple of feet of Joel and me. I surfed towards north peak, and caught a few really fun rights, and one epic left. It got pretty crowded early, but people kept shifting around (due to currents), so it would only be crowded on a peak for a little while. Waves were head high, with an occassional plus. Water was around 58, but the air was 38, so I got an "ice cream headache" when I came in from my session, and my fingers were numb from holding the board walking up the road. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.

12.30.12 - Turtles (Cardiff Campground)

Paddled out at 7:30 am, with Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 6.1' high at 9:29 am. Conditions were clean, with offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 279° at 18s. Joel and I started out at Muffs, but quickly decided to head up to Turtles b/c it was handling the sets better than Muffs. The sets were somewhat inconsistent, but when they did roll through there were several waves to the sets. My first few waves were some of the smaller inside ones, b/c I was having a hard time getting positioned correctly for the sets. About midway through the session, I got into a nice ryhthm and caught about 4-5 nice right hand set waves. Waves were head high + (especially on some of the set bombs rolling through). Water was 58°, I was a little chilly today, as my suit was still pretty wet when I put it on. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.

12.29.12 - 85s (Cardiff Campgrounds)

Paddled out at 6:30 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.3' high at 8:57 am. Conditions were clean, with offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.7' from 267° at 21s. I had checked out DM Rivermouth and Table Tops before deciding to paddle out at Muffs/85s. I initially started out at Muffs b/c there were a few guys at 85s and nobody at Muffs. I caught a few decent rides there before going down to muffs for some longer rights. I caught some fun ones despite being snaked a couple of time by one of the guys out there... Waves were chest to head high. Water was 58°. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.

12.28.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 1:00 pm, solo. Tide was dropping to a -0.8 low at 3:32 pm. Conditions were textured, with onshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.1' from 275° at 13.5s. I only had a short window to surf today, and based upon what north county looked like, I decided to go straight to blacks. The waves were much bigger than I had expected, and with the dropping tide it was draining pretty good. A lot of the wave coming through were pretty closed out, but I did see some guys picking off some corners. I spent a lot of my time paddling in and north due to the strong currents. I only caught two waves before getting cleaned up on the inside. Whilst trying to get back out, I decided to call it a session, and caught an inside wave in. Waves were solid head high plus. Surfline was calling it 5-7+. Water was 58°. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.