Thursday, June 27, 2013

6.27.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, Chris M and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a -0.6' low at 7:07 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 212° at 15s. The predicted SW swell was definitely hitting today. It was pretty inconsistent, so initially I thought it was going to be small - but then some sets rolled through… It was the most crowded that I have seen in some time (75+ guys spread out). I did manage to pick off some fun ones with one "hairy" right hand drop. Waves were Head high + on the sets, chest high for the in between waves. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (twin fin set up).





Saturday, June 22, 2013

6.22.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:50 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.4' high at 9:39 am. Conditions were junky, with south winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 285° at 8s. Today was pretty meager. I only caught a couple of okay ones. Waves were waist high. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Thursday, June 20, 2013

6.20.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:35 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was pushing to a 3.9' high at 7:56 am. Conditions were glassy, with little to no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 288° at 9s. Paddled out at near the Ho Chi Min trail and caught a lot of waves the first half of my session. They had some really fun drops, and some speed sections to work, but most ended up closing out. The second half of the session was fun, but I didn't catch as many waves. There was a significant south current today. Waves were chest to head high. Water was toasty in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Tuesday, June 18, 2013

6.18.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, with Joel S. and Chris M.. Tide was a 3.5' high at 5:41 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 284° at 7s. Surf was pretty fun today. Initially there were a lot of close-outs, but I was able to pick off some fun corners. The backwash was playing a role today as well. Nice dolphin show today as well. Waves were waist to chest high. Water was toasty in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Monday, June 17, 2013

6.16.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a 1.1' low at 9:14 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.5' from 202° at 16s. Surf was a little smaller, and more inconsistent than Saturday. Still caught a few fun ones.... Waves were Waist high +. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Saturday, June 15, 2013

6.15.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:45 am, with Chris M.. Tide was dropping to a 0.8' low at 8:25 am. Conditions were relatively glassy, with slight south winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 206° at 15 s. There were still some fun ones rolling through today. The waves were about a foot smaller than Thursday. Second day riding the Pig 2 as a twin fin… good times!. Waves were waist to occassional chest high. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





6.13.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 am, with Joel S.. Tide was dropping to a 0.2' low at 7:02 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.1' from 201° at 15s. The surf was surprisingly fun today. I didn't think there would be much surf, but there were some really fun rights and lefts coming in. There was a pretty good rip tide going at middle peak, but I was able to catch some nice corners by just sitting on the corner of the rip. I took the stabilizer fin out today, so it was my first time riding the Pig 2 as a Twin Fin… "Go speed racer, go!!". Waves were chest high +. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Saturday, June 8, 2013

6.8.13 - Beacons

Paddled out at 5:30, solo, but then I was joined by Chris M.. Tide was coming off of a -0.6' low at 4:10 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 5.3' from 210° at 17s. Surf was quite fun this morning. The set waves were pretty inconsistent. Some of the sets were pretty closed out, but there were some good corners to catch.. Waves were solid head high with bigger sets. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 6'3" Wayne Lynch.





Tuesday, June 4, 2013

6.4.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:40 am, solo, but was joined by Chris M. and Joel S. later. Tide was pushing to a 3.8' high at 7:54 am. Conditions were glassy to start with, with no winds to start, but then there were some south winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.6' from 210° at 12s. The session was pretty fun today. There were some racey rights and lefts rolling through. It was a little inconsistent. Waves were 3-4'+. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.





Saturday, June 1, 2013

6.1.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30, solo. Tide was dropping from a 4.1' high at 4:14 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.4' from 267° at 10s. The session started off pretty "soft" but as the tide dropped the waves got a little better. It also seemed that the swell was building a little. There was a strong southbound current today. Waves were waist high +. Water was toasty in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.