12.23.12 - Swami's-Boneyards

Paddled out at 6:15am, solo. Tide was dropping off of a 5.7' high at 5:38am. Conditions were glassy, with sligh offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.7' from 284° at 14s. Conditions were similar to yesterday, but the tide was affecting it some, and the crowd at swami's was more as well. I caught about 3 waves before paddling up to Boneyards. I caught several waves there, but it could have used less tide. I caught one really long right, so I decided to head back over to swami's to catch one in. Waves were 5-7'. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 fullsuit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.

12.22.12 - Swami's

Paddled out at 6:10am, solo. Tide was dropping off of a 5.5' High at 4:57am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 281° at 15.1s. This was a really fun day at Swami's. It was still pretty dark when I first paddled out. I surfed the north part of the main peak and caught some fun lefts, I also caught about 5-6 really long rights (almost all the way to the beach). My arms were seriously tired after each of the long rights. I kept thinking that I would paddle up to Boneyards if the crowd got to big, but it remained managable, so I stayed there the entire session. The KG was working really well for the conditions - nice drawn out turns, as well as fast through the speed sections. Waves were 5-7'. Water was comforatable in my 3/2 fullsuit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.

12.20.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:25am, solo, but Chris M. joined me around 15 minutes later. Paddled out at north peak. Tide was dropping from a 4.59' high at 3:07am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore  winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.2' from 282° at 13s. I would call today my first "winter" session at blacks this season. Just paddling out, you could feel the "energy" in the water. At south peak the waves looked good, however a lot of the sets looked closed out. I chose north peak because it looked like there might me more corners available. In the 45 minutes I was out, I only caught 5 waves. Most were just a drop, and the shoulder would flatten out... But what a drop they were! So in general I was happy with my session. Waves were solid head high with bigger sets. Chris and I were calling it 6-8' on the face. Water was around 60°, but the air was really cold. Today was my first session of the season with booties... they didn't suck, and were nice to have for the walk up the road. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.

12.08.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 11:00am, with Chris M. Tide was dropping to a 1.0' low at 11:28am. Conditions were clean, with slight side/offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 278° at 10.3s. When Chris and I walked down the road middles and north peak looked pretty packed, and there were some decent waves rolling in at south peak, so we chose the less crowded option. Some of the waves were a little "slow" but there were some fun lined up ones as well. My knee was extremely tender walking down, and back up the road, from running a 5k as well as a 1 mile fun run, it held up okay whilst surfing. Waves were chest high with occassional pluses. Water was toasty in my 3/2 full suit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.