Sunday, December 23, 2012

12.22.12 - Swami's

Paddled out at 6:10am, solo. Tide was dropping off of a 5.5' High at 4:57am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 281° at 15.1s. This was a really fun day at Swami's. It was still pretty dark when I first paddled out. I surfed the north part of the main peak and caught some fun lefts, I also caught about 5-6 really long rights (almost all the way to the beach). My arms were seriously tired after each of the long rights. I kept thinking that I would paddle up to Boneyards if the crowd got to big, but it remained managable, so I stayed there the entire session. The KG was working really well for the conditions - nice drawn out turns, as well as fast through the speed sections. Waves were 5-7'. Water was comforatable in my 3/2 fullsuit. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer Fish.





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