08.14.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45 (barely light enough, solo. Chris M made it out around 6:30. Tide was pushing to a 3.87' high at 8:38am. Conditions were glassy, with slight side shore north winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 281° at 4-6s. In general it was pretty junky out there. At first the waves were somewhat walled for how small they were, so it was hard to pick out a decent one. It got moderately better later.. Waves were waist high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: Xanadu Pig2. Best wave: almost didn't have one to report, but close to 7:00 I caught a really nice left between south peak and middles. It was about should high and it lined up all the way to the inside...