10.12.14 - Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:30 AM, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was coming off a 2.3’ low at 5:47 AM. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 256° at 17.3s. It was a decent session. The swell had definitely filled in. A lot of waves were pretty closed out. I did catch some decent rights at the north end at first, but the waves looked more consistent down south, so we headed there. Chris and Joel locked into some nice barrels. Waves were head high, with some pluses. Water was warm in my ss full suit. Board ridden: 5’11’ Xanadu Pig2.