10.1.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 4.38' high at 7:42 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.2' from 270° at 14s. Very short session as I lost a contact on the paddle out. I only caught two waves before heading in.. Waves were chest high plus. Water was warm in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 6'0" MR Twin.