Paddled out at 5:35 am, joined later by Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was 3.4' high at 6:51 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3' from 218° at 14s. Surprisingly fun session today. Nice peaks up and down the beach. Lefts were a little better than the rights, but both were pretty good. Waves were Chest high plus. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as a twin).
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Monday, July 1, 2013
7.1.13 - 19th Street, Del Mar
Paddled out at 5:15 pm, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.5' high at 5:30 pm. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.7' from 218° at 14s. Fun, spontaneous, post work session. Most of the sets were pretty walled off, but there were some fun corners to catch. Waves were 3-4'. Water was toasty in my trunks and long sleeve surf jacket. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (as twin).
Thursday, June 27, 2013
6.27.13 - Blacks
Paddled out at 5:45 am, Chris M and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a -0.6' low at 7:07 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 212° at 15s. The predicted SW swell was definitely hitting today. It was pretty inconsistent, so initially I thought it was going to be small - but then some sets rolled through… It was the most crowded that I have seen in some time (75+ guys spread out). I did manage to pick off some fun ones with one "hairy" right hand drop. Waves were Head high + on the sets, chest high for the in between waves. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2 (twin fin set up).
Saturday, June 22, 2013
6.22.13 - Blacks
Paddled out at 5:50 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.4' high at 9:39 am. Conditions were junky, with south winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 285° at 8s. Today was pretty meager. I only caught a couple of okay ones. Waves were waist high. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
6.20.13 - Blacks
Paddled out at 5:35 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was pushing to a 3.9' high at 7:56 am. Conditions were glassy, with little to no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 288° at 9s. Paddled out at near the Ho Chi Min trail and caught a lot of waves the first half of my session. They had some really fun drops, and some speed sections to work, but most ended up closing out. The second half of the session was fun, but I didn't catch as many waves. There was a significant south current today. Waves were chest to head high. Water was toasty in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
6.18.13 - Blacks
Paddled out at 5:45 am, with Joel S. and Chris M.. Tide was a 3.5' high at 5:41 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 284° at 7s. Surf was pretty fun today. Initially there were a lot of close-outs, but I was able to pick off some fun corners. The backwash was playing a role today as well. Nice dolphin show today as well. Waves were waist to chest high. Water was toasty in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.
Monday, June 17, 2013
6.16.13 - Blacks
Paddled out at 6:30 am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was dropping to a 1.1' low at 9:14 am. Conditions were glassy, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.5' from 202° at 16s. Surf was a little smaller, and more inconsistent than Saturday. Still caught a few fun ones.... Waves were Waist high +. Water was comfortable in my short sleeve full. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.
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