09.16.14 - Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:20 am, Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was just coming off of a 3.55’ high at 5:47 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 203° at 22.4s. It was a pretty fun session on the south side of the river mouth. Waves had that peaky wind swell feel to them. I was noticing a slight lack of wave judgement due to my hiatus.. Waves were chest high. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

09.07.14 - Table Tops

Paddled out at 9:00 am, solo. Tide was was coming off of a 5.6’ high at 8:45 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.9' from 198° at 16.6s. I randomly chose to surf Table Tops today, as it has been a while since I have surfed there. It was a little funky with the high tide, but I did catch a couple of decent ones. Waves were chest high +. Water was comfortable in my trunks and l/s surf jacket. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.

09.05.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 3:45 PM, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.4' high at 7:01 PM. Conditions were bumpy, with west winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.5' from 188° at 18.6s. The new swell was filling in. Most of the sets were pretty walled, but I was able to get a few decent corners. Waves were chest to head high. Water was warm in my long sleeve surf shirt. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin.

09.02.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:00 am, solo. Tide was dropping to a 2.8’ low at 8:26 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.0' from 204° at 14.9s. Today was a surprisingly fun session. Crowds were low, waves were a little inconsistent, but deceptively fun. Some waves were closing out, but if you got the right one, you could cover some serious ground. Waves were chest high plus. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.

8.31.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:35 am, with Chris M.. Tide was a 1.79’ low at 6:35 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.0' from 224° at 16.5s. Another pretty fun session. A little bit smaller than yesterday, but still caught a few long lefts. Waves were waist to chest high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.

8.30.14 - Blacks (I'm back....)

Paddled out at around 6:30am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was coming off of a 1.55' low at 5:54am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.1' from 209° at 15.0s. Today was my first day back surfing! Waves were pretty fun. I caught a good balance of lefts and rights. It was great being back in the lineup, and seeing folks. Waves were shoulder high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: MR twin fin.

08.23.14 - Blacks (body surf)

Paddled out at 6:20 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.44' high at 9:23 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.1' from 194° at 11.5s. Another fun body surf session at blacks. North peak was really crowded, so I stayed closer to middles. Only down side was my calves cramped up towards the end of my session . Waves were chest to head high, with occasional pluses. Water was comfortable in my spring suit. Board ridden: none.