Saturday, August 30, 2014

8.30.14 - Blacks (I'm back....)

Paddled out at around 6:30am, with Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was coming off of a 1.55' low at 5:54am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.1' from 209° at 15.0s. Today was my first day back surfing! Waves were pretty fun. I caught a good balance of lefts and rights. It was great being back in the lineup, and seeing folks. Waves were shoulder high. Water was warm in my spring suit. Board ridden: MR twin fin.






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