09.27.14 - DMJ (Camp Pendleton) #2

Similar size to this morning, but a lot more texture due to the winds. Did catch a few fun ones on my 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2. 

09.27.14 - DMJ (Camp Pendleton)

Paddled out at 8:00 am solo. Tide was pushing to a 4.2' high around 9:40 am. Conditions were a little bouncy due to the wind swell. Wind was offshore. A caught a few fun corners today. Board ridden: 5'10" Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish. 

09.25.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:10 am, solo. Tide was coming off of a 0.9’ low at 4:01 am. Conditions were a little bumpy due to evening wind, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.8' from 268° at 14.6s. Today was my first session on my new Larry Mabile shaped Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish. I caught a few okay waves, but nothing to write home about. Waves were waist to chest hig. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 5’10” Third World Exotic Twinzer Fish.

09.21.14 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.2’ high at 8:38. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.6' from 207° at 14.7s. It was a relatively small, and inconsistent day, but I did catch a few fun waves. Waves were waist high. Water was warm in my short sleeve full suit. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin.

09.18.14 Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:15 am, Joel S. and Chris M.. Tide was pushing to a 4.4’ high at 7:29 am. Conditions were a little bouncy, with light winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 5.3' from 208° at 17.4s. Today was bigger than Tuesday’s session, with some sneaker sets rolling through. Caught a few funs ones, but my timing was still feeling a little off. Waves were Head high with plus sets. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

09.16.14 - Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 6:20 am, Chris M. and Joel S. Tide was just coming off of a 3.55’ high at 5:47 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.9' from 203° at 22.4s. It was a pretty fun session on the south side of the river mouth. Waves had that peaky wind swell feel to them. I was noticing a slight lack of wave judgement due to my hiatus.. Waves were chest high. Water was a little chilly in my spring suit. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

09.07.14 - Table Tops

Paddled out at 9:00 am, solo. Tide was was coming off of a 5.6’ high at 8:45 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.9' from 198° at 16.6s. I randomly chose to surf Table Tops today, as it has been a while since I have surfed there. It was a little funky with the high tide, but I did catch a couple of decent ones. Waves were chest high +. Water was comfortable in my trunks and l/s surf jacket. Board ridden: 6’0” MR Twin Fin.