10.10.15 - Swami's

Paddled out at 5:45 PM, solo. Tide was pushing to a 5.0' high at 8:41 PM. Conditions were clean, with slight north winds winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.3' from 219° at 14.8s. Some what inconsistent, and only caught a handful of waves before dark. However the last few I caught - oh my!. Waves were head high with occasional pluses. Water was comfortable in my trunks and long sleeve jacket. Board ridden: 5’10” Third Wold Exotic twinzer fish.

02.19.15 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:10 am, solo. Tide was pushing to a 6.8’ high at 9:02 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.7' from 255° at 13s. Really fun session today. Some decent canyon bombs rolling through occasionally. Caught a few really fun lefts. Waves were head high, with some bigger sets. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 full. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

02.15.15 - Blacks

Paddled out at 7:00 am, solo. Tide was coming of a 6.0’ high at 5:57 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.3' from 258° at 13.7s. Fun, peaky, session today. Crowd wasn’t to bad, and I managed to get some fun lefts and rights. Waves were head high with occasional bigger bombs rolling through. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 full. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

12.24.14 - Del Mar Rivermouth

Paddled out at 2:00 PM, Chris M. Tide was dropping to a -1.1’ low at 5:06 pm. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.8' from 266° at 16.2s. Fun session. Started out at the north side of the river mouth, but it was pretty closed out. So we paddled north to the reefs... Waves were Head high plus. Water was comfortable in my 3/2 full. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

1.25.14 - Beacons

Paddled out at 3:15 PM, with Joel S. and Ken. Tide was pushing to a 3.1’ high at 5:33 PM. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.6' from 269° at 16.1s. Really fun session at Beacons’ south peak. There were some really long rights and occasional lefts. We all got some fun rides. Only downside was the obstacle course of people hanging on the inside. Waves were 7-9’+. Water was warm in my 3/2 full. Board ridden: 6’3” Wayne Lynch.

12.21.13 - Blacks (Winter Solstice)

Paddled out at 6:20 am, solo. Tide was coming up from a 2.5’ low at 4:36 am. Conditions were groomed, with 5 knot offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 269° at 12.1s. Fun day today! Head high peaks, with some fun corners to pick of. Waves were Head high. Water was a little chilly in my 3/2 full, but mostly due to the offshore winds. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

12.17.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 6.4’ high at 8:23 AM. Conditions were clean, with slight off-shore winds winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.9' from 267° at 14.7s. Clean, good, day at blacks!!. Waves were Head high with plus sets. Water was 60°. Board ridden: 5’11” Xanadu Pig 2.

8.31.13 - 25th St. Del Mar

Paddled out at 1:00 ish, with Joel S. and Shane Trussell. Tide was coming off of a 2.5' low at 12:53 pm. Conditions were glass, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of (please see today's earlier post). Body surfing session was really fun today. Waves were a little to walled for board surfing, but a lot of fun for body surfing. Quite a few barrels to be had, and got by best body surfing barrel so far. Waves were 3' +. Water was a little chilly in my farmer john. Board ridden: not applicable.

5.2.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 5:45, Joel S. and Chris M. Tide was dropping to a 0.0' low at 10:22 am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.5' from 203° at 16s. Surf was really fun today. There were quite a few long lefts, and occasional rights rolling through. Most waves were head high, or slightly overhead. There were the occasional set rolling through that was at least a couple of feet overhead. Waves were head high - overhead. Water was a little warmer today, but still some cold spots. Board ridden: 6'3" Wayne Lynch - 3rd session on this board. I think it will definitely be a good board for blacks.

4.9.13 - 85s (Cardiff Campgrounds) - Round two

Paddled out at 4:00 pm solo. Tide was coming off of a 0.4 low at 3.15 pm. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Surf was cleaner than this morning, but somewhat inconsistent. Peaks were shifting around some, with some occasional sneaker bombs rolling through. Waves were 5-7'. Water felt nice, wore my 3/2. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

3.2.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 am, solo. Tide was a .5' low at 6:14am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.1' from 274° at 11s. Waves were pretty fun today, with the combo SW and NW swells - this was causing some pretty classic blacks a-frame peaks. It was somewhat inconsistent, and pretty crowded, so it was pretty challenging to get a lot of waves. Waves were chest to head high with occasional pluses. Water was cold. Wore my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

2.12.13 - 11th St. Del Mar

Paddled out at 6:10 am, with Chris M. and Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 5.19' high at 10:04 am. Conditions were clean, with no winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 3.3' from 277° at 17s. Today was a really fun session! I would say this was the best session that I have had at 11th St. in the past couple of years. Chris, Joel, and I had the peak we were on pretty much to ourselves. We were all able to score a few really long rides. Some of the more inconsistent sets were closing out some, but the in-between waves would hold up really well. Waves were head high with occasional pluses. Water was cold, but felt okay in my 4/3, booties, and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.22.13 - Suck Outs (Cardiff Reef)

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Joel S. Tide was coming of off a 5.2' high at 5:51am. Conditions were clean, with slight offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.1' from 275° at 18s. Conditions were really clean, but somewhat inconsistant though. Joel and I were the first two guys out, and there were about 10 guys out when we came in about an hour later. Today was the day that I really "christened" my new board. My first and last wave were really long right hand walls where I took off at suck outs, and made my way well past south peak, with some really fun turns. Waves were 3-5'. Water was around 56°, felt okay in my 4/3 with booties and hood. Board ridden: 5'11" Xanadu Pig 2.

1.3.13 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:15 am, with Joel S.. Tide was pushing to a 3.94' high at 12:23pm. Conditions were really clean, with offshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 2.8' from 270° at 14.8s. This morning was a really fun session, albiet short due to work commitments. I was walking down the path with Cody, and just when Joel caught up to us near the bottom of the road, we all saw a shooting star! Then shortly after paddling out, a school of 15-20 dophins cruized through. Two or three of them came within a couple of feet of Joel and me. I surfed towards north peak, and caught a few really fun rights, and one epic left. It got pretty crowded early, but people kept shifting around (due to currents), so it would only be crowded on a peak for a little while. Waves were head high, with an occassional plus. Water was around 58, but the air was 38, so I got an "ice cream headache" when I came in from my session, and my fingers were numb from holding the board walking up the road. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.