12.28.12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 1:00 pm, solo. Tide was dropping to a -0.8 low at 3:32 pm. Conditions were textured, with onshore winds. Torrey Pines Outer Buoy was reporting Significant Wave Height of 4.1' from 275° at 13.5s. I only had a short window to surf today, and based upon what north county looked like, I decided to go straight to blacks. The waves were much bigger than I had expected, and with the dropping tide it was draining pretty good. A lot of the wave coming through were pretty closed out, but I did see some guys picking off some corners. I spent a lot of my time paddling in and north due to the strong currents. I only caught two waves before getting cleaned up on the inside. Whilst trying to get back out, I decided to call it a session, and caught an inside wave in. Waves were solid head high plus. Surfline was calling it 5-7+. Water was 58°. Board ridden: 5'10" KG Twinzer.